


To what kinds of cameras do these digital backs attach? View cameras and medium format SLRs.
A medium format SLR is easy to understand. It has all of the same components as the familiar Canon and Nikon SLRs, but everything has been scaled up. Hasselblad, Mamiya, and Rollei were the leading manufacturers of these cameras in the film days. They usually engineered the camera body and the film back in separate pieces. In the studio you'd attach the Polaroid back to check the lighting with a few test exposures ($3 each, kids!). Then you'd attach a back loaded with slide film for a few photos. If you wanted to be 100 percent sure that you had something usable, you'd attach a second back loaded with more forgiving color negative film for insurance. Standard frame sizes included 45x60mm, 60x60mm, and 60x70mm. When digital came along, it was only natural that people would engineer a back to fit the existing inventory of camera bodies and high quality lenses.
How well do these systems work? The most integrated is the Hasselblad H3D. The manufacturer claims "the ease of use of the best 35mm DSLRs", which means "not as fast or easy to use as a Canon or Nikon, but the fundamentals of viewing and photographing will probably work better."
What is the fundamental limitation with a medium-format SLR? The lens and the film are fixed parallel to each other. We can remove that, at the expense of ease of use, by attaching the digital back to a view camera.
View cameras are the most flexible cameras, usually made from a basic design that has not changed for over 100 years. A view camera is a light-tight bellows with a bracket at one end for a lens and a bracket at the other for the digital back. You compose and focus your image on a groundglass, then displace the glass with a sheet of film or a digital back. Adding to the challenge is the lack of a mirror or prism, which means that you view the image upside down and reversed left-to-right.
Why work this hard to take a photo? The flexibility of arbitrarily positioning lens and sensor opens up a huge range of creative opportunities that are unavailable to most photographers. For example, if you want to take a photo of a building, the obvious thing to do is point the camera up towards the center of the structure. However, this results in projecting the vertical exterior of the building onto the angled sensor surface. The lines of the building will converge towards the top of the frame. A view camera allows you to keep the camera level with the ground and either shift the lens up or the digital back down. The sensor is now "looking up" at the building through the lens, but the sensor is still parallel to the building exterior so lines don't converge.
If you're taking a picture of rocks in a stream with a view camera, you can achieve sharper focus by tilting the lens forward a bit. This will get the Scheimpflug Rule working for you: the planes of the subject, the lens, and the sensor should all intersect in a line. You can achieve the same result by leaving the lens fixed and tilting the sensor back a bit. This will improve the focus and also increase the relative prominence of nearby rocks since they will be stretched out onto the film.
A complete view camera system consists of the camera, a couple of lenses, the digital back, a dark cloth, a focusing loupe, a tripod, etc. Complete with protective case, it will weigh at least 30 lbs. and you will agree with the wise 8x10" photographer who said "If it is more than 100 yards from the car, it's not photogenic."
Companies that make digital backs include Hasselblad, Leaf, MegaVision, Phase One, and Sinar.
Panoramic Cameras
If you want the maximum in convenience and image quality, there are purpose-built wide-angle and 360-degree panoramic cameras that incorporate a line of CCD sensors and a motor to scan the sensors behind the lens. The folks at Roundshot will be happy to sell you one for about $30,000. Keep in mind that, with a scanning back, different portions of the image will be captured as much as a few seconds apart. Files range in size up to 470 megapixels.
Film Cameras
We've arrived at the last and, to my mind, least important chapter in the text. As noted on the cover page, this is where most photography textbooks start. Generally your choice of camera will not have much effect on the final image. Certainly the brand of camera that you choose will have virtually no effect. However, if you're a nerd like me, there is a certain satisfaction in knowing what tools are available to the photographer and how they work. Here are the factors that go into the choice of a camera for a project:
Suppose that your project demands high image quality and high magnification. For example, you are going to make a 20 x 24 inch enlargement and display it in a corridor where people can walk right up to it to check out fine detail. This requirement pushes you toward using a large piece of film for the original exposure. The large piece of film will require a large relatively heavy camera surrounding it, which gets us into Factor 3: "How much weight can you carry to the subject?"
Annie Leibowitz goes to a portrait session with several assistants carrying her heavy Mamiya camera that exposes a 6 x 7 cm negative (4.5 times the area of a 35mm negative). Ansel Adams would pack his 8 x 10 inch camera into the Sierra with a mule. If you're the mule and your subject isn't in your home or photo studio, think about whether you'll have the energy to take any pictures after carrying around a particular camera and its accessories.
Different cameras work at different speeds. With the latest Canon or Nikon autofocus systems, you might be able to capture an unanticipated event on a soccer field. Ansel Adams could not have done this with an 8 x 10 view camera, which requires many minutes for setting up the tripod, focusing, stopping the lens down to taking aperture, closing the shutter, cocking the shutter, film loading, dark slide removal, and exposure. If your subject is a big mountain, you can probably afford to take your time making the image.
Now that we have the factors in mind, let's dive into the types of cameras available:
Film Sizes
A camera won't do you much good unless you can buy film in the right size for it. Companies like Fuji and Kodak will generally make the same emulsion (film formulation) in a variety of sizes.
Almost every emulsion will be available in 35mm cartridges. The standard frame size for a 35mm camera is 24 x 36 mm.
Most emulsions are available in "120 size" roll film. There are many standard widths for 120 camera frames: 645, 6x6, 6x7, 6x8, 6x9, 6x12, and 6x17. These numbers are ostensibly in centimeters although in practice a 6x6 camera such as a Hasselblad will expose a 56 x 56 mm frame. Comparatively few emulsions are available in 220, which is the same as 120 except that you get twice as many exposures/roll (24 rather than 12 for 6x6; 8 rather than 4 for 6x17 panoramics).
If you need a larger negative than roll film, you must use sheet film. Standard American sizes are 4x5, 5x7, 8x10, and 11x14. The dimensions are in inches. The largest sizes are wonderful for those who do darkroom work because they can be contact-printed into final framable results, avoiding the degradation of an enlarger lens. However, there is very little emulsion choice in 11x14 and not too much in 8x10 or 5x7 either. Given the high quality of modern optics and film, for most applications these days, a 4 x 5 inch sheet of film is large enough. Therefore that's where most of the demand is and where you get the best choice of emulsions.
I'm not going to let my article on APS film and cameras serve as my repository for what I know about this format (somewhat smaller than 35mm). Despite the intriguing nature of spy cameras such as the Minox (Austin Powers used one to copy documents), film formats significantly smaller than 35mm are generally not useful for serious photographers.
View Cameras
View cameras are the most flexible cameras, usually made from a basic design that has not changed for over 100 years. You know the guy in the old time photo studio who photographs with his head under a cloth? He's using a view camera. Edward Weston? He took most of his best photos with an 8x10" view camera. All those luscious ads for food in magazines? Taken with view cameras.
A view camera is fundamentally a light-tight box with a slot at one end for a lens and a slot at the other for the film. You compose and focus your image on a groundglass, then displace the glass with a sheet of film in a film holder.
The lens and film aren't fixed parallel to each other. This opens up a huge range of creative opportunities that are unavailable to most photographers. For example, if you want to take a photo of a building, the obvious thing to do is point the camera up towards the center of the structure. However, this results in projecting the vertical exterior of the building onto the angled film surface. The lines of the building will converge towards the top of the frame. A view camera allows you to keep the camera level with the ground and either shift the lens up or the film down. The film is now "looking up" at the building through the lens, but the film is still parallel to the building exterior so lines don't converge.
If you're taking a picture of rocks in a stream with a view camera, you can achieve sharper focus by tilting the lens forward a bit. This will get the Scheimpflug Rule working for you: the planes of the subject, the lens, and the film should all intersect in a line. You can achieve the same result by leaving the lens fixed and tilting the film standard back a bit. This will improve the focus and also increase the relative prominence of nearby rocks since they will be stretched out onto the film.
If you want to understand view cameras, you can start by reading B&H Photo's introduction to large format and the standard textbook on the topic: View Camera Technique. I provide some view camera sample images in my FlashPix References Images collection.
Single lens reflex (SLR)
Suppose that the photographer has chosen an exposure of f/8 and 1/125th of a second. Here is how most SLRs work during exposure:
SLR manufacturers generally provide a range of interchangeable lenses. This works out nicely because changing the lens simultaneously changes the scene magnification on film and in the viewfinder. Unlike view cameras, it is tough to mix and match brands. Camera bodies and lenses are coupled mechanically and perhaps electronically in non-standard ways (partly to accomplish the exposure sequence detailed above). So a lens for a Hasselblad SLR won't fit a Rollei and a Canon EOS lens won't fit a Nikon body.
The best thing about an SLR is that what-you-see-is-what-you-get. If you've left the lens cap on, fitted a really long telephoto, attached a strange filter, you can see the effect in the viewfinder. This is also true for a view camera, but with an SLR the image is right-side up and available until a few milliseconds before the exposure.
One obvious problem with an SLR is weight. The prism on top of the body that lets you see a properly-oriented image is heavy. For medium-format SLRs, the prism is very heavy and is usually optional. If you don't mind looking down into the camera and seeing an image that is reversed left-to-right, you can use a lightweight metal viewing hood rather than a prism.
Another problem with the SLR is noise. The mirror is light but it has to be flipped up as fast as possible. This is noisy. With a medium-format SLR, the mirror is four times the size of a Nikon's and very noisy.
A final problem with an SLR is exposure latency. If you wait for the decisive moment and press the shutter, the camera doesn't take a picture until it has stopped down the lens and flipped up the mirror. This takes between 50 and 100 milliseconds for the average 35mm SLR.
Note that a few 35mm SLRs have been built with fixed semi-transparent mirrors called "pellicle mirrors". The Canon EOS line includes a cheap discontinued EOS RT model and an expensive current EOS-1 RS model. The RS's mirror sends one-third of the light to the viewfinder and two-thirds to the film. Thus the viewfinder is more than 1 f-stop dimmer than a standard camera and the film gets 2/3 f-stop less light than with a standard camera. Advantages are that the picture gets taken 6 ms after you press the shutter release, you retain your view of the subject at the exact moment of exposure, the motor drive can operate at a blistering 10 frames per second, and there is less vibration.
Twin lens reflex (TLR)
A twin-lens reflex has two lenses (the twin lens) and a mirror to bounce the light from one of them onto a ground-glass focusing screen (the reflex). Lacking a prism, a TLR tends to be lightweight. Since the mirror remains fixed at all times, a TLR tends to be quiet and exposure lag is minimal. TLRs are mechanically very simple. Consider that in an SLR the lens must have an automatic diaphragm that remains open until the instant before exposure, then stops down quickly to taking aperture. With a TLR, there are separate taking and viewing lenses and therefore the aperture knob can directly open and close the diaphragm blades.
TLRs suffer from potential misalignment, e.g., when the image is focussed on the ground glass by the viewing lens, it might not be focussed on the film plane by the taking lens.
TLRs suffer from parallax. The viewing lens is higher than the taking lens and captures a different image. If the image is a mountain 20 miles away, the three inches of separation won't be significant. However, you can forget about doing macro work and you might get interesting framing errors if you're close to the subject.
The classic collectible TLR is the Rolleiflex, which takes 120 and 220 roll film. Though there is no technical reason why TLRs couldn't be built for other film sizes, virtually all make 6x6 cm images on 120 film. The TLR that poor photography students use is the Yashica 124 (see photo at right; I took it during my junior year at MIT). The TLR that wedding photographers use is the Mamiya because you can change the lenses. The only TLRs currently in production are the Rolleiflex, which is priced from $3000 and sold to collectors, and various Chinese-made inexpensive toys (e.g., the Seagull for about $130). Used Mamiyas, Rolleiflexes, and Yashicas are common, however, and quite inexpensive. They are great for people taking darkroom classes who don't have much money but want a larger easier-to-handle negative.
Rangefinder and lens-shutter cameras
The simplest lens-shutter cameras are like my Fuji 617. Fuji took a view camera lens, with its shutter, and glued it to a rigid body that holds roll film. You lose the perspective control of a view camera but the result is a much simpler and more compact camera. Focusing on the simplest lens-shutter cameras is done by "guestimation"; the focusing ring on the lens is marked in feet and meters. You try to figure out how far away your subject is and then turn the ring accordingly.
Most SLRs have focal-plane shutters. After all, if you're going to buy 10 lenses and one body, it makes more sense to put an expensive shutter only in the body. But if you've got a camera with a permanently affixed lens, it makes just as much sense to put the shutter in the lens. In fact, if a lens is very small, as with a consumer's point and shoot camera, a between-the-lens shutter can often be very small and therefore cheaper and faster than a focal-plane shutter that must cover the entire exposed film area.
With a lens-shutter or rangefinder camera, you can't look through the lens. You view the image through a separate optical viewfinder. As with the TLR, the image on film will be a bit different than what you viewed due to parallax: the viewfinder isn't exactly aligned with the lens.
It turns out that people aren't very good at estimating distance precisely. So companies began putting military rangefinders into lens-shutter cameras, coupled to the lens and the viewfinder. The photographer turns a ring on the lens until two superimposed images are aligned in the viewfinder.
Modern lens-shutter cameras tend to have some sort of autofocus mechanism.
Without the mirror and prism, lens-shutter cameras can be much lighter and more compact than an SLR using the same film format. Mamiya and Fuji roll-film rangefinders are actually lighter than the big Nikon and Canon 35mm SLRs, despite the fact that roll-film cameras produce a negative that is four times the size.
With no mirror to slap, lens-shutter cameras are also much quieter than SLRs. The United Nations, for example, requires that photographers use Leica 35mm rangefinder cameras to record events.

2000x3000 pixels (6 megapixels); good for prints up to 10x15" in size
2700x3600 pixels (10 megapixels, average digital SLR); good for prints up to 13x18" in size
2900x4400 pixels (13 megapixels, Canon 5D); good for prints up to 15x22" in size
3300x5000 pixels (16.6 megapixels, Canon 1 Ds Mark II); prints up to 17x25"
4080x5440 pixels (22 megapixels; medium format backs); prints to 20x27"
5400x7200 pixels (39 megapixels; medium format backs); prints to 27x36"
10000x14000 pixels (140 megapixels; large format scanning backs); prints to 50x70"
Note that the "print size" is the maximum at which you'll get the kind of print quality that one would have gotten with the best film equipment, enlarged no more than about 10x. By this standard, the largest that you could have enlarged the typical 35mm negative before a noticeable reduction in quality would be 10x15", the same as the 6-megapixel digital SLRs. A 6x7cm medium format negative at 10x will enlarge to 24x28". A 4x5" sheet of film could enlarge to 40x50" and withstand close inspection.
What about dynamic range?
A glossy photographic print has a dynamic range of about 100:1, i.e., the brightest highlight reflects about 100 times more light than the darkest shadow. This is a 6.6 f-stop range, 2 raised to the 6.6 power being close to 100. Ultimately our goal is to represent a real-world scene within this 100:1 ratio. How tough should that be? Things in the real world are either white like the blank photographic paper, black like a shadow printed on the photographic paper, or somewhere in between. You'd therefore naively imagine that a typical real-world scene would have about the same dynamic range as a photographic print.
Materials in the real world, however, are more varied than the photographic paper. Snow is extremely reflective while black velvet or matte black paint have textures that absorb light. Differences in surface properties can push the dynamic range of a real-world scene up over 200:1, which is all the dynamic range you'd need if not for shadows. Consider a granite cliff face with bright white highlights. Add a cave. The interior of the cave will be dark, despite the fact that it is made of the same rock as the cliff. The fact that the cave interior is in shadow and receiving a very different amount of light than the rocks and trees outside adds a huge amount of contrast. Now put a black bear inside that cave and try to take a photo that captures detail in the shadowed-by-the-cave bear's face and the lit-by-the-sun cliff face. You're struggling with as much as 16 f-stops of dynamic range or 64,000:1. For practical purposes, a high-contrast real-world scene is usually limited to 1000:1, or 10 f-stops.
Thus the digital photographer is presented with two challenges: (1) capturing the full range of tones that are present in a scene, (2) figuring out how to map those tones into the more limited range that is representable in a finished print.
How many bits are necessary to capture our 1000:1 scene? As 2 raised to the 10th power is 1024, one would naively suppose 10 bits, but, since the RAW files are encoded linearly, that would leave only two levels in the dark shadows: on and off. The result would be banding in the shadows. We will have to add a couple of extra bits to ensure the same number of levels that the human eye can distinguish. We therefore need at least 12 bits per color, which is coincidentally what the mid-range digital camera RAW formats provide. That will be sufficient to capture a high-contrast scene, assuming the exposure setting is perfect. The expensive digital camera backs, some of which incorporate electronic cooling to reduce sensor noise in the shadows, offer a 12 f-stop dynamic range and output 16 bits.
What if you capture JPEG files, in effect asking the camera to do the RAW to JPEG conversion? A standard JPEG encodes 8 bits per color or 256 levels and incorporates a gamma factor so that the numbers do not linearly correspond to luminance. The human eye can distinguish roughly 200 levels with the 6.6 f-stop range of a final print. Therefore a perfectly exposed and converted JPEG ought to be adequate for making the best possible final print. Unfortunately, in practice, the exposure won't be perfect and the computer in the camera won't make the same same decision that you or a professional darkroom technician would about how highlights and shadows ought to be mapped into the print tones.
Unless you're going to do all of your photography in a studio with controlled lighting and a calibrated camera-to-printer setup, you must have a camera that outputs RAW files with at least 12 bits per color. This rules out nearly every point and shoot-style camera.
Point and Shoot
Well, they're compact, but due to the small sensor and small lens, you can almost always get substantially higher image quality if you're willing to carry a larger camera. The megapixel count will undoubtably be high, but the contrast and sharpness will be low and the shadow noise high. Very few P&S cameras provide a RAW capture option, so the number of luminance levels is limited to 256, only 1/16th as many as you'd get with a 12-bit RAW from a low-end digital SLR. We cover point and shoot cameras in a separate article.
Single lens reflex (SLR)
A single lens reflex (SLR) is a camera in which the same lens is used for viewing and taking pictures. A mirror in the body directs the light from the lens up into a prism for viewing, then flips up out of the way just before an exposure is made. Note that this is not an exotic technology; the standard Nikon or Canon camera body (photo at right) is an SLR. Suppose that the photographer has chosen an exposure of f/8 and 1/125th of a second. Here is how most SLRs work during exposure:
SLR manufacturers generally provide a range of interchangeable lenses. This works out nicely because changing the lens simultaneously changes the scene magnification on film and in the viewfinder. It is tough to mix and match brands. Camera bodies and lenses are coupled mechanically and electronically in non-standard ways. A lens for a Canon EOS body won't fit a Nikon body and vice versa.
The best thing about an SLR is that what-you-see-is-what-you-get. If you've left the lens cap on, fitted a really long telephoto, attached a strange filter, you can see the effect in the viewfinder.
One obvious problem with an SLR is weight. The prism on top of the body that lets you see a properly-oriented image is heavy.
Another problem with the SLR is noise. The mirror is light but it has to be flipped up as fast as possible, which is necessarily noisy. Photographers who work during live theater or concerts often surround the camera in a "blimp" to muffle the noise.
A final problem with an SLR is exposure latency. If you wait for the decisive moment and press the shutter, the camera doesn't take a picture until it has stopped down the lens and flipped up the mirror. This takes between 50 and 100 milliseconds for the average SLR, which can be reduced to about 40 milliseconds by using the mirror lock-up custom function. A standard digital camera uses the final 40 milliseconds to register dark current levels from the image sensor. These levels vary based on temperature and other conditions, and must therefore be updated for every picture or sequence of exposures.
[Do not confuse an electronic viewfinder (EVF) point and shoot camera with a true mirror-and-optics SLR. The EVF camera is sending light continuously to the sensor and feeding the sensor output to a little TV screen on top of the camera. Physically the format is very similar to a true SLR, but current TV screen technology isn't nearly as good as current optics.] More on this kind of camera: "Building a Digital SLR System".
Rangefinder and lens-shutter cameras
The simplest camera would include the following components:
Such cameras have been common since the invention of photography and are known as lens-shutter cameras.
With a lens-shutter or rangefinder camera, you can't look through the lens. You view the image through a separate optical viewfinder. The image that you take home will be a bit different than what you viewed due to parallax: the viewfinder isn't exactly aligned with the lens.
It turns out that people aren't very good at estimating distance precisely. So companies began putting military rangefinders into lens-shutter cameras, coupled to the lens and the viewfinder. The photographer turns a ring on the lens until two superimposed images are aligned in the viewfinder. The only digital cameras that include traditional optical/manual rangefinders are the Epson R-D1 and the Leica M8. Both accept lenses from the Leica M film camera system, which are designed for the 24x36mm frame of 35mm film. Both the Epson and Leica digital rangefinders incorporate a small sensor, thus multiplying the effective focal length of the old lenses. These cameras accept a large range of lenses and therefore use a shutter just in front of the sensor, i.e., a focal-plane shutter.
If you put an autofocus and autoexposure mechanism into a traditional lens-shutter camera, what do you have? A consumer's point and shoot camera.
Without the mirror and prism, lens-shutter cameras can be much lighter and more compact than an SLR using the same sensor. With no mirror to slap, lens-shutter cameras are also quieter than SLRs.
There is no mass market for high quality digital rangefinder cameras and therefore the cameras that are available are much more expensive that SLRs that produce the same image quality. The image quality of the best SLRs is not available at any price from a digital rangefinder.
to be continued………………
Sensor Sizes
Larger sensors offer lower noise at high ISO settings and are therefore essential for taking pictures in low light conditions. The best light for photography is typically fairly dim and therefore using a larger sensor is highly desirable. Unfortunately, the cost of manufacturing a sensor goes up exponentially with size and the largest sensors can cost more than a car. Here are the standard sizes:
The scanning back, a line of CCD elements that are swept mechanically behind the lens, is a great idea, but it only works for static subjects since the minimum scan time is about one second.
to be continued………………

This is the life of coastal area of Bangladesh. Facilities like education, health etc. are very limited………People have to struggle with life to survive ……..and very often they have to fight with fatal weather ……….
a textbook by Philip Greenspun; revised January 2007

If you ask a professional for some exposure advice, the typical answer is "f/8 and be there." This is a bit of an in joke. The "f/8" part of it sounds vaguely technical and useful, since f/8 is an actual aperture that you can set on most lenses. But it doesn't mean anything without an accompanying shutter speed or film ISO. The "be there" reminds you that ultimately exposure is pretty easy. The most important thing to have is patience and dedication so that you're around when a great photograph is happening.
As I noted in the chapter on film, the real world generally contains a wider range of tones than you can represent on paper, film, or even with the best digital sensors. You have to make an artistic decision about where you place those tones. Some detail will inevitably be lost as tones that are distinguishable in the real world are mapped to the same number out of a digital sensor or density on film.
This chapter will teach you how to control and predict which details are lost.
Single-lens reflex cameras have an intimidating array of buttons. It will please you to know that there are only three controls that affect the imaged: focus, aperture, and shutter speed. The two controls that affect exposure are aperture and shutter speed.
If neither the subject nor the camera are moving, the shutter speed is not very important. Aperture, however, affects the depth of field and therefore which portions of the image will be in focus.
What is aperture and why is it useful to change it? Aperture is the degree to which the iris or diaphragm inside the lens is opened. Lenses are designed for maximum light-gathering capability. The diaphragm is just like the iris in your eye; it can be closed or stopped down to block off a portion of the light coming through the lens. A lot of expense and weight went into making your lens fast or good at gathering light. Why would you want to throw away some of that capability away?
The first reason to stop down a lens is that the world might simply be too bright. If you're using high-speed (sensitive) film and have a slow shutter that must expose the film for at least 1/500th of a second, using a smaller aperture is the only way to prevent too much light from striking the film and overexposing it.
A more interesting reason is for aesthetic control of sharpness. Suppose the lens has a maximum aperture of f/2. The f-number is the lens length divided by the diameter of the aperture opening. So for a 100mm lens, this would be a 50mm opening. The depth of field will be shallow. Only the object on which you focussed will be sharp. Things closer or farther from the camera will be out of focus. The range of distances for which objects are acceptably sharp is called the "depth of field". Notice the word "acceptably" in the definition. What is acceptable in an 8x10 print viewed from across the room may not be acceptable in the same print viewed at arm's length. What is acceptable in an 8x10 print viewed at arm's length may not be acceptable in a 30x40 print viewed at arm's length.
If you want more objects in the scene to be acceptably focussed, you have to stop down the lens to a smaller aperture, e.g., f/16 or f/22. This nomenclature is a bit confusing at first for beginners because a smaller aperture means that the lens length divided by the aperture diameter gets larger, yielding a larger f-number. Even more confusing is the fact that lenses are calibrated with a strange succession of apertures: 1.4, 2.0, 2.8, 4.0, 5.6, 8.0, 11, 16, 22, 32, 45, 64. Each step represents a halving of the amount of light that comes through the lens. Why? The area of the aperture is proportional to half the diameter squared. So multiplying the f-number by the square root of 2 halves the amount of light coming through the lens.
With a long lens and a wide aperture, the depth of field is very narrow. Only those objects exactly at the focussed distance will be sharp. For example, here are a couple of images taken with a 600mm lens at f/4 or f/5.6:
Notice that only the birds are sharp and the backgrounds are soft. The effect may seem rather extreme given that f/4 and f/5.6 are not ordinarily considered super wide apertures. Depth of field is related to the absolute size of the aperture not the f-number (lens length divided by aperture diameter). A 600mm lens is a big honker and an f-number of 4 implies an aperture 150mm across. I.e., the depth of field at f/4 on a 600mm lens will be shallower than at f/1.0 on a 50mm lens.
One way to achieve overall image sharpness is to choose a composition where everything is roughly the same distance from the lens (50mm).
Another approach is to stop the lens down to a small aperture. Note here the leaves in the upper right corner of the frame and the trees at infinity. Both are sharp thanks to the f/16 aperture used on this 50mm lens.

If you're using a single-lens reflex camera, where what you see through the viewfinder is what the film will see after the mirror flips up, you might be confused at this point. You turn the aperture ring on the lens and the image remains just as bright in the viewfinder. Moreover, out of focus objects don't get any sharper as you stop down. You're using a lens with an automatic diaphragm, introduced in the 1960s. The lens will be stopped down by the camera an instant before exposure, just as the mirror is flipping up. If you're just viewing and composing pictures, the lens is kept wide open for maximum brightness. To see what the film will see, you press the depth of field preview button. This lets you visualize in the viewfinder the focus effects of stopping down the aperture but it takes some practice to adjust to the extreme dimming that occurs by f/11 or f/16.
For a given amount of exposure on the film, the shutter speed can be determined by the aperture that you set for aesthetic purposes. If you are taking a portrait and want to throw the background out of focus, choose a wide-open f/2.8 aperture. Suppose that implies a shutter speed of 1/125th of a second. If you change your mind and want to ensure that the background is sharp, stop down to f/22, 6 f-stops less light. The film will need to be exposed for 2^6 times as long. Two raised to the 6th power is 64 so you'll need a shutter speed of 1/2 second to achieve the same density of exposure on film.
A camera with built-in meter can do this calculation for you. Professional photographers most typically use an exposure mode called "aperture-priority autoexposure". The photographer picks the aperture and the camera picks the shutter speed. Does it matter what shutter speed the camera picks? Not as long as neither the camera nor subject is moving. If they are standing up, most subjects won't be able to hold acceptably still for the 1/2 second exposure mentioned above. The photographer will be advised to open the aperture until the shutter speed is 1/15th second or faster. If the photographer is handholding the camera, i.e., not using a tripod, the 1/15th of a second exposure will very likely result in an unacceptable amount of camera shake being recorded on film. When using a normal lens, the general rule is to use shutter speeds of 1/60th or faster. Longer lenses magnify the subject but they also magnify camera shake. The traditional rule for handheld photography is to use shutter speeds of at least 1/focal-length. So if you've got a 250mm lens you'd use shutter speeds of 1/250th or faster. You'll be well advised to use faster speeds if you intend to make big enlargements from your originals. You can get away with slower shutter speeds if you either (1) brace yourself against a solid object, (2) rest the camera/lens on a solid object, or (3) use a lens with electronic image stabilization.
There are sometimes aesthetic reasons to use different shutter speeds. If you are taking a picture of something moving and want to show the motion, you'll need a slowish shutter speed. If you're taking a picture of something moving and want to freeze the motion, you'll need a fastish shutter speed, the exact speed depending on the velocity with which your subject is moving and whether the direction of moving is towards the camera or sideways across the frame (note: the best way to freeze motion is with an electronic flash, which is actually a kind of strobe light; a cheap on-camera flash may have a duration as short as 1/30,000th of a second).
Given the information and examples above you ought to have some idea of the aesthetic results you're trying to achieve. If you're interested in the blurring or stopping of motion on film, set the shutter speed first. If you're interested in what will be in focus, set the aperture first. If you can't get a combination that suits you, look for a different speed of film or put a neutral density filter over the lens to reduce the amount of light coming through without changing what is in focus.
How do you know that you're send the right number of photons through to the film so that your result won't be completely black (underexposed slide) or completely white (overexposed slide)? Old-timers using negative film would simply estimate the exposure from their experience, then fix up any minor errors in the darkroom. A somewhat more accurate technique is to RTFM. Here are the instructions included with Kodak Tri-X, a name shared by two confusingly different films (Tri-X Pan is ISO 400 and has good midtone separation; Tri-X Pan Professional is ISO 320 and has more highlight separation):
"Use the exposures in the table below for frontlighted subjects from 2 hours after sunrise to 2 hours before sunset."
| Lighting Conditions | Shutter Speed (Second) | |
| Tri-X Pan | Tri-X Pan | |
| Bright or Hazy Sun on Light Sand or Snow | 1/500 | 1/500 |
| Bright or Hazy Sun | 1/500 | 1/500 |
| Weak, Hazy Sun | 1/500 | 1/500 |
| Cloudy Bright | 1/500 | 1/500 |
| Heavy Overcast or | 1/500 | 1/500 |
| * Use f/5.6 at 1/500 for backlighted close-up subjects. | ||
to be continued………………